Project: AX15-64, the AXiS-64 clone
  • TAGTAG February 2011
    The AXiS-64 is a MIDI controller from C-Thru Music that Chris introduced to us at one of the first soundbuilders meetings

    image
    The AX15-64 is what I have dubbed our attempt to clone the AXiS-64, hopefully for a lot less than the ~$1700 pricetag from C-Thru.
    There have been a few attempts to make a DIY version of this, or more generally an isomorphic keyboard, but achieving the velocity sensing without a custom switch has been the sticking point.  Many of the DIY designs use the MX switch from Cherry, it is a really nice switch that is used in high end mechanical computer keyboards:
     image
    The problem is that traditionally, velocity sensing is achieved by measuring the time between 2 switch contacts closing and the Cherry MX switches only have one set of contacts.  I did find a guy that added a second set of contacts to the top of cherry switch as seen here:
    image

    That would work, but would be difficult and time consuming to duplicate 192 times.

    So, in trying to figure out a way to add velocity sensing to a Cherry switch, I took one apart.  From the internal construction it appeared that if the bump on the bottom on the switch were cut off, it would open a hole in the bottom of the switch and the plunger would poke out the bottom when the switch was fully pressed.  So I put the switch back together and cut the bump off the bottom.  Sure enough when pressed the stem poked out and I put together the following concept:

    image
    Attachments
    velocity.JPG 98K
  • psioniclabspsioniclabs March 2011
    I'm working on these gigantic boards now...

    I need to post some pictures of my early attempts at isomorphic keyboard design using single-bus keyboard controllers. 
  • TAGTAG March 2011
    Here are some pics of the PCBs for the project:

    image

    image

    image
    Attachments
    AX15 PCB Top.JPG 263K
    AX15 PCB Bottom.JPG 251K
    AX15 PCB Top populated.JPG 225K
  • psioniclabspsioniclabs March 2011
    Some part numbers of components being used on this project..

    The top switches are Cherry MX1A-11NW. They were out of stock at Mouser, but I was able to find some from Arrow. 

    ...But you can get them cheaper than those distributors sell them for if you get a Cherry G80-11900 keyboard on ebay and individually desolder them.

    The tactile switches for the bottom board are Panasonic EVQ-Q2B03W

    Diode part numbers are FDLL4148

    There are assorted surface mount caps, resistors and shift registers but I don't have the part numbers right now.
  • psioniclabspsioniclabs March 2011
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  • psioniclabspsioniclabs March 2011
    Let's try that again:

    <span class="youtube-embed">KfjEYu79J</span>
  • psioniclabspsioniclabs March 2011
    <span class=”youtube-embed”>KfjEYu79J-4</span>
  • psioniclabspsioniclabs March 2011
    <div class="Video"><iframe title="YouTube video player" width="480" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/KfjEYu79J-4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
  • psioniclabspsioniclabs March 2011
  • psioniclabspsioniclabs March 2011
    Ah OK, just insert the freaking link!
  • __red__ March 2011
    Here from the makezine blog.

    I've been building over the past couple of weeks a project which is vaguely similar to yours except I couldn't find a way to make the keys velocity sensitive.  Your idea is elegant and I just wish it didn't involve me having to de-solder all of my switches to cut the bottoms off :-)

    Watching with extreme interest.

    Also, if you guys need someone else to bulk buy or otherwise assist with scaling the hexagonal key manufacture please contact me.  I need about 260 of them since I'm building one to the Janko format as opposed to the Axis64.  (ie, 6 x 45).  I've made some prototypes on the hackerspace CNC but they're just not working for me.

    Oh, I'm also putting LEDs to make where the white/black keys are.  The idea being that when I switch formats from harmonic table to janko to wicki/hayden etc - the LEDs will follow.

    Thanks,



    Red

  • psioniclabspsioniclabs March 2011
    Hello Red. Welcome!

    A contributor to the project is working out the details for molding keycaps. Maybe he'll chime in with some updates on his experiments. 

    TAG has made some nice milled wood keycaps, but really we need something that will scale up for the amount of keys we need. You can certainly share in our bounty when we crack that nut. 

    Do you any photos or info on your Janko design? I'd love to see how you are utilizing LEDs for different table formats. I was thinking that would be ideal, but couldn't conceptualize how to implement it.
  • gigasturtz March 2011
    Hi, this is Nick, the guy working on the keycaps. I ordered a sample size of a mold rubber that i think will work for our project, TinSil 70-60. I'm going to try a diy injection mold with a single keycap. If it works we can make a second mold to do multiple keys at a time, or just slowly trudge along making one at a time. 

    I'm also looking into farming it out to a company that does injection molding. I haven't gotten any quotes yet, but I would be surprised if it wasn't prohibitively expensive. It's worth asking nonetheless. 


  • __red__ March 2011
    Wooden keycaps would be the easiest for me to use for sure as I could just mill them on the CNC.

    Here is some gcode to mill the female connector for the keycaps:  http://red.pwn.me/spike42.nc

    The format I'm building is 5 rows of 45 keys.  Each PCB contains a 4x5 matrix of both keys and LEDs.

    I really need to keep the keycaps clear (or at least translucent) as the LEDs are mounted in the keyswitches.
  • __red__ March 2011
    gigasturtz: What material are you injecting?
  • gigasturtz March 2011
    i was thinking abs plastic but i'm open to suggestion. I've never done this technique before so i'm just going to try different things out.
  • __red__ March 2011
    I'm not an expert in such things.  Btw, if you're not on the diykeyboard mailing list I know the people on there would be excited to read about your project.


    Red

  • __red__ March 2011
    image
  • psioniclabspsioniclabs March 2011
    Ah, I see now. I hadn't thought of LED mounting on the switch! Is it a through-hole for a single LED or could you do 3-pin for bi-color?


  • __red__ March 2011
    Two lead LEDs.

    The primary reason for the build in the first place was to make something that I could use to experiment with different isomorphic layouts and use it to research which layout works best for me and the type of music that I compose / perform.

    So, I sacrificed things like velocity sensitivity and other performance-based criteria and focused entirely on building something designed just for the research.

    Once this keyboard is done and I've made my decision on layout I can then re-build using velocity sensitivity and opaque (probably wooden) keys colored correctly.

  • gigasturtz March 2011
    does anyone have a prototype of the keycap that i could use to make the mold? The best would be a nonporous material, but I could probably make a wood one work. Thanks!
  • JlMoriart March 2011
    Dude, definitely look into generalizing the firmware to any keyboard layout. C-Thru realized pretty late that it's REALLY useful to be able to to specify one of multiple layouts (like wicki-hayden or chromatic button accordian).
    For instance, I used my AXiS-49 to make a Thummer imitation (a jammer) and you might want to, at some time, try that layout too:

    John
  • TAGTAG March 2011
    They key layout is just a lookup table in the software, so adding alternative layouts will be simple.  The Midibox STM 32 core also has an LCD drive onboard, eventually I'll add a UI for selecting key layouts, midi channels, etc.
  • JlMoriart March 2011
    That's too sweet. Looking forward to the finished product!
  • psioniclabspsioniclabs March 2011
    Hey Red, what hackerspace are you with?
  • TAGTAG March 2011
    I have attached the schematic for the board, the switches and diodes are not included.  I placed those in layout without drawing them into the schematic first.
    Attachments
    AX15_64_SCH.pdf 17K
  • living March 2011
    First post. I followed some links here looking to DIY an isomorphic keyboard. I'm really excited about this development - I've been wanting an isomorphic board for years now, watched the sad fate of the thummer unfold, etc. 

    I'm wondering if you guys will be making the PCBs available for sale? I'm extremely interested in buying them, though I imagine the boards themselves will be quite pricey due to the size. I'm ok with computer-type keycaps, for now at least. 

  • TAGTAG March 2011
    We ordered 10 pcbs and those are all spoken for.  For a quantity of 10 they were ~$70 each, since there are 2 boards per keyboard it ends up being ~$140 for the PCBs.  I will be posting the gerber files soon after I correct some errors and make some improvements to the boards we have.
  • __red__ March 2011
    @psioniclabs - I'm at Hackerspace Charlotte.  http://hsclt.org/
  • living March 2011
    Hmm, I figured they'd be in that range. I'm a big fan of fabbed boards, and I design a lot of them for effects pedals and synth gear, but for this I may try to design a home-etched board, since part density is low enough to make that pretty attractive. Looking forward to seeing those gerbers, and when I finish up a layout that can be etched, I will be sure to post the file here for others who want to make them. Awesome work, guys, really glad to see people working with this kind of stuff.
  • psioniclabspsioniclabs March 2011
    Thanks living.

    Just know what you're getting into if you attempt to home-etch these boards. I'm very experienced with home-etched boards and this isn't something I would attempt... 

    TAG's put in lots of details with fine traces, plated vias, surface mount pads, masking and precise line-up holes to make this work. The boards are huge, which would make heat transfer (ironing) with 8.5"x11" sheets unfeasible. You'd have to *precisely* align multiple sheets together.. for both sides. And you'd have to be creative via connecting the through-hole vias. Not to mention sourcing a copper-clad board that's big enough. ...Maybe if you have access to a CNC that could mill the boards precisely..

    BUT!! regardless, I'd be interested to see if you could tackle the challenge!

    TAG had some issues with the first run of Gerbers (missing traces and masked over solder pads) so it'll be worthwhile to wait for updated ones that correct those problems.
  • __red__ March 2011
    We (Hackerspace Charlotte) just finished the buildout of our 24"x24" CNC machine.  That may be big enough to fab something like this.  My main concern is that I will blunt one of the PCB etching bits before it's completed :-)
  • TAGTAG March 2011
    When I started the layout one of my intentions was to keep the top and bottom layers separate using the bottom layer for the cherry switches and the top layer for the tact switches (which are surface mount).  The intention was to have a design that would be more home-etch or home-mill friendly, each board would only need a single layer.  I still think such a layout is possible, but it started to get tough when the scan matrix (24x16) didn't match up with the key matrix (21 columns with varying numbers of rows), and since I new we planned to order the pcbs I took the easy way out and started adding vias and jumping layers.
  • TAGTAG March 2011
    One major improvement to the layout that I want to implement is using connectors to make contact between the 2 pcbs.  With the current design the 2 boards are soldered together, which makes troubleshooting a huge pain.
  • __red__ March 2011
    I see how that would be a problem.

    I ended up not building a matrix of switches but instead just putting one key per pin of chained  74HC165s.  I'm using a parallax propeller CPU to drive everything.



    Red

  • sbelknap March 2011
    The AXiS-64 clone looks great. The implementation of velocity sensitivity is a clever hack. The Wicki-Hayden layout has some advantages over the AXiS-64 layout. Its basically the same as the AXiS-64, rotated 90 degrees. There would be one keyboard for each hand, flats under the thumbs, each keyboard the mirror image of the other. Please consider building an instrument with the Wicki-Hayden note layout. See for example, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wicki-Hayden_note_layout

    Michael Eskin, Ken Rushton, Jim Plamondon, & I designed an app that implements Wicki-Hayden on an iPhone/iPad. The programming was done by Michael; his wife helped with the graphics.
  • psioniclabspsioniclabs April 2011
    Oh what's the app?

    Wicki-Hayden is the layout I originally found that got me into isomorphic keyboard designs. Since all the keys are done in a look-up table, it'd be easy to turn this 90 degrees with a remapped layout. 
  • KGS April 2011
    I want to provide some additional information here.

    I've been looking into making one of these things myself, but the keycaps remain an obstacle. I've made inquiries about costs to various companies, and the cheapest I could manage was 1600 usd for 1000 caps. I guess if some kind of bulk order could be managed we'd save a lot of money by handling it that way.

    The problem for me is that I live in Sweden, which is basically entirely devoid of people interested in this kind of project. If any kind of bulk order is made in the US I'd like to know about it as long as one delivery to Sweden is possible.

    Actually, now that I see the circuit boards I'd like to know if THOSE can be bought from you as well. That would be extremely handy, seeing that I'm having difficulties securing a workshop for the drilling, and making the etching myself I don't know how I'd go about to mark the holes for drilling with the precision I need.

    Edit: Naturally, if it turns out that the offer I have been given is the best one possible, we could perhaps arrange for having it done in sweden and then delivered to the US. I don't know how much the shipping would cost, however.
  • KGS April 2011
    Does anyone have a cad file of the key cap? If so it would help me tremendeously when investigating the possibility of having the key caps injection moulded.
  • psioniclabspsioniclabs April 2011
    I'll ask around tonight at our physical meeting if anyone has a cad file of the key cap. 

    Note: the schematic of the keyboard circuit above isn't accurate. The SN74HC165's were replaced with another IC, because there wasn't schematic footprint available at the time.

    I guess just on a general note for those that have discovered this project via the internet...

    We're a group that meets at a hackerspace in Louisville, KY USA called LVL1. We've got several folks working out details on this keyboard. But be patient as it's a work in progress. All the schematics, Gerbers, etc are still rough and take some kludges to fix first draft prototyping errors in designs. Keycaps are the tricky part right now and I don't think there's an 'obvious' way of doing these in bulk quite yet. I expect we'll be experimenting with different methods before figuring out a good solution. 

    And we'll share everything we can about this project to everyone's benefit!
  • KGS April 2011
    Yes I managed to figure that out :D

    I hope you succeed with your PCB. I'm looking forward to seeing the result.

    The price I gave you was an estimate from the factory. The guy I talked to said that doubling or tripling the volume would have minimal effect on the price so if 2000 key caps are made for 10 keyboards at roughly 1800 total usd then that's 180 usd per person (and 200 caps each). That's still pricey, but bearable. If you can get me a cad file that'd be grand.
  • __red__ April 2011
    @psioniclabs - looks like you guys need a project page for this project to keep up with all the interest ;-D
  • psioniclabspsioniclabs April 2011
    I think you're right. I'll make a point to start a wiki page collection of info on the LVL1 main site sometime next week.
  • sbelknap April 2011
    The Wicki-Hayden iPhone apps are mJammer and HexJam.
  • gigasturtz April 2011
    I finished the first keycap prototype a few minutes ago! I'll post pictures when I get home.
  • I think you guys are my kind of nut.
    However one does wonder why you didn't just buy a pair of Axis-49's @ $430 each? I find they work great.

    Anyway, if you want advice on creating the keycaps. give me a boo, and look at my work creating keys a year ago, in www.MusicScienceGuy.com.

    You might want to just buy plastic disks - After I made a bunch of Hex ones with a table saw and a miter saw, if found out I could just have ordered round ones, and they would have worked just as well.

    Anyway, You are still my kind of geek.

    MSG.
  • Second, once you get the things working, you'll need midi software to reconfigure the boards on whim and provide lots of musical tricks. I've written the starter set of software for this, made it open source, and an looking for guys to help me enhance it.  Please give it a whirl.
    a rel="nofollow" href="http://
    Ken.


  • I've made about 15 of them so far. They are made of a pourable polyurethane plastic that I got from www.sculpt.com. I had a little trouble with bubbles but I think it was resolved with more aggressive agitation. I'll bring them to the next meeting for you all to check out. 

    sorry for the links, inserting them as images didn't seem to want to work.
  • KGS April 2011
    Edit: Great work with those caps, but isn't that going to take quite an excessive amount of time to make even 200 of those? Is the attaching part precise enough to fit the cherry switches, btw?

    I remain convinced that we should simply make a bulk order from a company that does injection moulding. It shouldn't be too difficult if it is done in a scale large enough to make 10 of these keyboards.

    http://www.progressplasticsinc.com/index.htm
    http://www.hbmolding.com/index.html

    If some kind of shipping can be arranged from the US (200 caps for myself shouldn't be too expensive to get to sweden) then I want to be part of that bulk order.
  • gigasturtz April 2011
    The attaching part was molded directly from a cherry keycap, so it's a perfect fit. Right now I'm making them one at a time, but the plan is to make another mold that could make multiple at a time. 

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